Project Round Up! 27th of June 2018


Just wanted to do a bit of an update on all current project I’m working on at the moment. Most projects are on hold as I’m a one man crew with limited free time and since I’m taking commissioned work, I don’t really have the time to work on everything. I’m usually working on 2 projects at once: Commission stuff first and then personal stuff if I have some time in the week ends. I won’t list things I wanna make, just projects I have actually started. Some of them will be finished, some of them might not due to a lack of time. Let’s do a round up!

N7 Crusader from Mass Effect (Commission)

State of the project: 3D model is 100% done. It is sliced up and ready to be 3D printed!

Features: None, just a painted prop.

N7 Valkyrie from Mass Effect (Personal Project)

State of the project: 3D model is almost done. I need to slice it up intelligently for 3D Printing.

Features: None, just a painted prop. Might add LEDs if it’s not too much trouble.

M7 Caseless SMG from Halo:3 & Halo:3 ODST (Commission for family/friends)

State of the project: Prototype is ok but 3D model needs some tweaking.

Features: Retractable butt and front handle, Removable clip, sight and silencer for the ODST version.

Custom Light Saber (Personal Project)

Further discussed here


Data Knife from Titanfall 2 (Personal Project)

State of the project: I already made a regular Data Knife a while ago but with no electronics whatsoever. I’m still figuring things out as space availability is rather thin.

Features: LEDs animations when trigger is pulled. A small video is available here

R201 Carabine from Titanfall 2 (Personal Project)

State of the project: Just started the 3D model and as usual, Titanfall 2 props are highly detailed and require A LOT OF TIME.

Features: Removable mags. Maybe more stuff as I go along.

L-STAR from Titanfall 2 (Personal Project)

State of the project: 3D model is almost done. I need to slice it up a bit and optimize everything for 3d printing without compromising ease of assembly and electronics accessibility. I got the electronics almost sorted out but since I learned new tricks with the lightsaber project, I might go back and change a few things

Features: Trigger responsive rotating parts. LEDs.

Here a small timelapse of my first 3D modeling sessions:

And here’s another small video from my Twitter account of the electronics that will go inside it

SE-44C Blaster from Star Wars (Personal Project)

State of the project: 3D Model still in the making.

Features: TBD

┬áThat’s all folks!

I actually have some other stuff but I wanted to focus on the more defined projects. I’m also learning Zbrush to be able to tackle more organic designs like this Harry Potter Elder Wand I made a few month ago. Perfect to start practicing Zbrush!


Custom Lightsaber Project


Let’s open this blog with a personal project I’m working on in my limited spare time:


Yeah I know, I’m super original but I can’t help it. I’ve wanted one since I’m 5 so let’s get to it and make Past Jeff proud. I’ve actually started this project a few weeks ago but I haven’t done much and I kept going backward as I’m having a hard time finding the right electronics for the job.

Specs of the project

Right now, as I’m still a newbie in electronics, I just want it to be able to light up to a specific color (that can be changed thanks to an auxiliary button). When I’ll have a good setup and better understanding, I’ll see if I’ll try to add sounds and light effects based on movements but since it’s a bit out of league in terms of coding, I wanna start simple (never used audio amps and accelerometers/gyroscopes)

The Electronics

First thing I need to settle is the electronics I’m gonna use since it’s gonna directly impact the design (overall diameter for the battery pack):


  • 2 meters of Neopixels strips (WS2812 chips) (144/m or 60/m depending on the brightness needed)
  • A small microcontroller to control the neopixels
  • A couple of buttons to turn the saber on and off and selecting the color
  • A battery pack to power up everything

The core component is the Neopixels strip but they can drain quite a lot of current. About 20mA per pixel.

If I use a 800mm blade with 144led/m pixels, that makes about 110 pixels x 2 strips = 220 pixels total. 220 pixels * 20mA=4400mA=4.4 Amp

Same blade length but with 60led/m, 50 pixels x 2 = 100 pixels. 100 pixels*20mA= 2000mA=2Amp

This greatly limits the choices of battery so I initially went with a 4*AAA battery holder that would have house 4 NiMH for a total of 4.8V that could deliver roughly 2000mAh. I thought about using a phone powerbank (2000maH with 5V regulated) but the max output is only 1A.


The problem with this build is that the battery pack that I planned to use (4*AAA in square, not like the schematics) is too big (31*31mm). Typical lightsaber hilts are about 28mm in diameter and 290mm in lenght. After a few online searches, I noticed that a battery type was quite popular for lightsaber makers: the 18650 Li-Ion battery. It’s has between 2000 and 3000mAh and operate at 3.7V. It’s small and packs a lot of mAh, perfect right?!


Only problem is that the Arduino Nano operates between 6-20V… But luckily, there are other boards on the market, like the Adafruit Trinket 3V. It’s super small, got enough processing power for what I plan to do and will work perfectly with the Li-Ion battery. Only drawback is that I’m pretty sure I won’t be able to add an accelerometer/gyro + amp for sounds based on movement with this build.


The Hilt

With the electronics sorted out, I decided to tackle the hilt. As usual, I decided to go with 3D printing so I opened up my 3d modeling software and started modeling the key parts and designed the casing around.





As you can see, I went with an original design. I searched online and took inspiration of designs bits I liked. The idea is to have a “core” that can be used a template for future build. Here’s the prototype and almost final look (may be subject to changes)



The blade

So, I also need something to house those neopixels right? I decided to go with a D25mm plexiglass tube. Two strips, placed back to back, will be wrapped in foam and inserted in the sanded tube to have a good diffusion.

I’m still experimenting to see if 144/m strips are absolutely needed or if 60/m strips will be enough with clever diffusion.



And that’s it for this project so far! As said earlier, It’s a personal project I get to work only on week ends.

What’s next? I need to continue testing the blade to get the best diffusion and I need to order some Trinkets 3V as I only have Nano’s and 5V trinkets at home. When I’ll get that, I’ll be able to start soldering the electronics.

Stay tuned for more!

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Projects Updates!

Hi there!

Just a very small text to say that I plan on doing a “regular” blog from now on as Facebook, Instagram or Twitter can’t convey all the info with as much details as I would like.


I put regular into quotation marks as I’ll mainly do this when I have some time so if I have a very busy week, I won’t have time to write anything but I plan on writing a blog entry about once a week to talk about current projects.

What you can expect:

  • Information on ongoing projects, commisions, etc
  • WIP pics of 3D modeling, 3D printing, post-processing, painting etc…
  • Articles on specific aspect of propmaking
  • Some tips and advices on general propmaking
  • And probably other prop related stuff I forgot

See you soon!